It’s the last leg of our Italian adventures! After we dropped off our rental car in Florence, we hopped on the train to Naples. We heard from multiple sources that it was worth the money to take a private transfer from Naples to the Amalfi Coast. There are public transportation options, but they’re known for pickpockets. We also wanted to try and see Pompeii, and were able to find a package that included pick up at the train station, a two hour tour of Pompeii with a local guide, and transfer to Positano. It was expensive, but totally worth it! We booked through our friend Melanie, who works for Avanti Destinations.
Pompeii was an ancient Roman City outside Naples which was buried under volcanic ash when Mount Vesuvius erupted in the year 79. The ruins are incredible, and they’re still discovering more every day. So much is still intact, and our guide showed us how to tell the difference between what was a storefront, and what was a home. Experts have been able to learn a lot about the people of Pompeii and the way society operated, and it’s really interesting to explore.
After our tour, we hopped in the car and made the hour-long drive to Positano. The Amalfi Coast towns are built into the hills, so driving there is basically a series of curves and sharp turns.
TRAVEL TIP: Cars are only allowed to go so far into Positano, so if you’re staying closer to the water, be prepared to schlep your suitcases down the stairs to your hotel.
Where We Stayed:
There are so many beautiful hotels in Positano! We ended up choosing Hotel Buca di Bacco, located right above the big beach. Our room was spacious, with tons of storage, and we had a balcony with a breathtaking view. The hotel spans two buildings, so to get from your room to the lobby or outside, you need to take two elevators or two sets of stairs. It was fine for us, but just an FYI.
The hotel has its own bar and restaurant, and we had dinner and drinks on the terrace our first night. Unsurprisingly, the fish was very good, and they made a fantastic Rossini cocktail!
Day 1
On our first full day in Positano, we had breakfast at the hotel, and then set out to explore. As I mentioned, the town is built into a hill, so you definitely get a good workout just wandering around and going in and out of shops. There are plenty of touristy shops with lemon-themed everything, but there are also more authentic places. One thing I really wanted to do was have a pair of sandals custom-made. I checked out a couple of shops, and chose one that had more simplistic (aka less bejeweled) options. I didn’t get to watch the sandals being made, but when I came back to try them on, she cut down the straps and punched the holes. Such a fun souvenir, and I’ve already worn them a couple of times.
For lunch, we went to Ristorante Max, which is a funky place in the heart of Positano. It’s actually part art gallery, and there is art everywhere. They offer cooking classes, but since we had already done that in Tuscany, we decided to let them make the food. After lunch, we spent some time on the beach in front of our hotel. You have to pay for a chair, but since it’s a rocky beach, it’s definitely worth it.
That night, we went for drinks at Franco’s Bar, a trendy spot that’s part of La Sirenuse hotel. If you’ve seen Instagrams of Positano, some of them have probably been from Franco’s. There was a wait for a table when we got there, which I knew there would be, but it was a fun experience. The drinks are good, but not anything special, so I would say if you have the time, it’s worth going once. The views are gorgeous, but honestly, that’s just Positano!
After drinks, we were supposed to take a shuttle to La Tagliata, a popular restaurant located way up on the hill. We somehow missed it, but we called the restaurant, and they sent someone to pick us up. La Tagliata is family-run, and they don’t have a menu. Once you’re seated, they ask what kind of wine you want, and then bring you food as it comes out. Everything was so good, and they were very friendly and welcoming. When you’re done eating, the shuttle takes you back into town. Yes, it’s maybe a little touristy and there were a lot of Americans there, but that didn’t take away from the experience.
Day 2
On our second day, we got up a little earlier to take the ferry to Capri. There are several ferry companies that make regular trips from Postiano to Capri, and you can either get tickets ahead or on the spot. The ferry was about a half hour ride and very efficient. We had already decided that we didn’t want to do a full boat tour of Capri, but we wanted to see the Blue Grotto. I reserved tickets for a “transfer” with Motoscafisti di Capri. This meant that when we got off the ferry, we went to another part of the marina and got on another boat to take us to the Blue Grotto. Once we were outside the grotto, we had to wait our turn and then we got in a rowboat to take us inside. It’s a bit of a process, but in my opinion, totally worth it. Being inside that space when the light shines in is just breathtaking, and something I will never forget!
TRAVEL TIP: No matter how you get to the Blue Grotto, the entrance fee to the grotto itself must be paid in cash once you get in your rowboat. Make sure you have euros on you!
Our transfer boat brought us back to the marina, and we were ready to head into town. Like Positano, Capri is built on a hill. You can take a funicular or walk up. The line for the funicular was very long, so we decided to walk. It was a lot of steps, and very hot, but we made it! The main part of Capri is actually pretty fancy. The streets are lined with designer shops and there are models roaming around showing off the wares of local designers.
We had lunch at Michelangelo, which had come highly recommended. It’s another family-run place located off the beaten path in Capri, and it was fantastic. Everything we ate there was amazing, especially the mozzarella sampler, and it was definitely one of our favorite parts of Capri. We browsed a bit after lunch and then took the ferry back to Positano.
That night, we went back to La Sirenuse for drinks at their Champagne Bar. It’s a beautiful spot and we enjoyed it, but honestly, very pricey for what it is.
From there, we went to dinner at Zass, a Michelin star restaurant located in the very chic Il San Pietro Hotel. Unlike our experience at Aroma, even though this restaurant was highly regarded, they were also incredibly warm. Our server Roberto was especially great, and he helped us decide on what to order. They have a 40-year tradition of bringing you a piece of homemade pizza as a complimentary appetizer, which we loved. I had a fantastic fish dish there too.
Day 3
When I was researching for this trip, I knew I would want to spend time on the beach. The public beaches in Positano are totally fine, but I thought it would be fun to hang out at a beach club one of the days. So, we made a reservation at Arienzo Beach Club. They pick you up in a little boat from the main pier in Positano, and it’s just a five minute ride. It’s quiet and secluded, and your reservation includes a chair. They also have a full bar, and a restaurant where you can have lunch. The weather wasn’t ideal that day, but we still really enjoyed having the opportunity to relax outside of the hustle and bustle of the main part of Positano.
That night, we climbed up the hill to Faro Bar at the Montmarte Hotel, another place I had scouted out beforehand. While all of the views in Positano are amazing, this one was especially impressive. The drinks were good, but probably not worth the trek unless you’re planning to be in that part of the town anyway. We were planning on it because we had dinner reservations at Da Vincenzo. This was another place that we heard about from various people, and it was perfect for our last dinner in Italy. The pasta was great, and so was the beef!
Day 4
The next day, it was time to go home. We had picked up pastries from Collina Bakery the day before and were very glad to have them for a quick breakfast. We used Amalfi Coast Destination to drive us back to the Naples airport. Our driver was friendly and on time, and I would definitely recommend them. We flew from Naples to Rome and had lunch during our layover. The pizza at Farinella was surprisingly good for airport food! Also a generally pleasant experience on Al Italia once again, and we were back in New York safely. This was an incredible trip and I’m so grateful for the opportunity. Let me know if you have any questions about anything we did or saw!
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